2012年1月28日土曜日

Alpine Ice Company

alpine ice company

March or Die | Sharp-Edge

In winds of over 100mph there were only two choices: to keep moving or to settle for a slow death through hypothermia. This wasn't what Eric and Liz had signed up to, but a measure of their perseverance and acceptance of suffering.

The day had started out reasonably enough, though a storm was expected. Eric had some experience of climbing, though Liz was a complete novice, and they both wished to see Scotland and experience some winter ice. This wasn't like Alpine ice climbing, however, with short walk-ins and blue skies, but a typically Scottish winter's day. Only it was about to get a lot worse.


Thin Ice: Coming of Age in Grand Rapids
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There was relatively little snow and not that much icing evident on the walk in to the coire. If anything I would have said that it felt much more like a (late) early season day. As we advanced into the basin below the cliffs, it was obvious that a lot of the routes had been stripped back by the recent mild weather. Whilst there were parties braving the few remaining ice routes we headed to the far end of the Goat Track and found a line up to the coire rim. A combination of snow, wind slab and névé  it provided the ideal introduction to crampon and ice axe use. In addition we roped up as a three to provide some experience of working as an alpine 'corde'.


Champs on Ice
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Jack Wright

Once at the rim, however, the situation seriously deteriorated and it became obvious that we would have to hike away from the cliffs to get back to our start point. Even navigating as far as possible in the lee of the wind all three of us were still being blown around, and sometimes bowled over, mercilessly. Personally I find this sort of weather event exhilarating and humbling in equal measure. With reduced visibility, and facing directly into the wind, rime ice began layering our clothing and faces. Goggles began icing up and the going was tough over the barely snowed up rocks. Liz and Eric did incredibly well never having had to traverse large expanses of scree wearing crampons before.


Though I knew where we were headed neither Liz nor Eric had any idea that I knew where I was going. They were forced to keep moving on trust alone and to believe me each time I said that sheltering out for the night was not really an option. Ultimately we found ourselves above the ski slopes of Coire Cas and made our way back to the car. As an introduction to winter mountaineering Liz and Eric had endured a winter's worth in the space of a day.



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